Easter Island, Days 3-5

We've had a rough time getting internet in South America, so here are our final days of Easter Island. Soon after we'll post about our long day of travel.

First, the end of our second day: after our long day looking at moai and going around the island, we actually took a nap. Getting up early for a sunrise was exhausting. Once we showered, we went to a dance show featuring native dancing and music. It was pretty cool. The similarities between Pacific Islands are interesting.

We planned to go to Ahu Akivi that night to see the moai in the moonlight, but by the time the show was over, there was torrential downpour and a storm was moving in. So we went back to the hostel to enjoy the lightning show from inside.

Day 3

The morning of the third day, of course, it was still raining. We slept in a little. When we got up, we found the best empanadas at a little place called Moiko Ra'a. Seriously, ese empanada es la mejor en todo Sude America. (This is the best empanada in all of South America.)

We then went to the market and found a few more really awesome souvenirs.

After spending more than we should have (on priceless items, of course), we drove up to Orongo, the ceremonial village. From the top, we were able to look down into the crater of Rano Kau, an enormous volcano that helped form the island.

We walked through the ceremonial village where during the time of the birdman, only sacred members of society were allowed in. The birdman, those going through a right of passage, leaders in the community, etc.

During the time of the birdman, sponsors would choose someone to represent them in a competition to become the next year's birdman. The representative would have to climb down the cliffs next to Rano Kao into the Pacific, swim through the ocean (which at that time was shark infested) to the island of Moti Nui (the big one there), climb up those cliffs, and find an egg from the sea bird Sooty Tern, and return with it safely. The first to do this, his sponsor becomes the next birdman. They did this every year, up until the late 1860's.

We made our way, then, to Ahu Akivi. These moai are the only ones that are not facing inland, and are instead facing the ocean. Unfortunately we never got to see them in the moonlight, as most nights were rainy or cloudy.

On our way back to town, we went up Puna Pau, which is the volcano where most of the pukau (or top knots - the hats) were made from the red lava stone. Our biggest question, of course: how did they get them out?

We returned to town to find a glorious sunset. We ate at a restaurant called Pea - very, very delicious. I had fish with a mixed green salad, with a dash of olive oil. I don't know what they did to that fish, but it was terrific. We ate while watching the surfers and the sunset. So perfect!

We watched a little bit of a soccer game in town, but it was late and a storm was rolling in, so we didn't stay long.

Day 4

This was our last full day on the island. We woke up a bit late, but that is okay. We've been on the go go go, so it felt nice to sleep in. Our hostel was great - Camping Mihinoa. Quiet, beautiful, no bunk beds, clean, right by the water, and he rented us a car for way cheaper than the car rental places in town. We walked around town a bit.

We revisited Moiko Ra'a for another best empanada and a different dessert. Then we went back to Rano Raraku to get a few more pictures. Also, we wanted to make sure that it wasn't all a dream.

We also went up to the crater of the volcano. It was so beautiful and under advertised. There is a lake up there, and there are actually moai inside that are lying about, and there are a couple that were started. We couldn't get close to them, but it was a short hike with huge payout value.

We also went back to Ahu Tongariki since we were right there to see it one more time before we left.

We ended with a hike toward Ana Kakenga, although we never found it. Apparently there is a cave there, but we could not find it. Maybe we didn't walk far enough, maybe it's hidden, I don't know. But it was nice to hike around on Easter Island.

The rest of our evening was pretty relaxed.

Day 5

Our last morning on the island. So sad. Tanya woke up early, and when she looked out the window she found clear skies. So she woke me up and we went outside to look at the stars. There were so many! We could see the Milky Way and shooting stars - so awesome.

We slept a bit longer, though it was hard to fall asleep after that. We went into town for a sweet treat breakfast, and returned to the hostel to prepare to leave. We packed, then we shared a beer while watching the waves crash against the rocks.

If you can, this is definitely, definitely a place you need to visit.